<?xml version="1.0" encoding="UTF-8"?><rss version="2.0" xmlns:content="http://purl.org/rss/1.0/modules/content/" xmlns:dc="http://purl.org/dc/elements/1.1/" xmlns:atom="http://www.w3.org/2005/Atom" xmlns:sy="http://purl.org/rss/1.0/modules/syndication/" > <channel><title>Comments on: Basement Insulation</title> <atom:link href="http://www.homeconstructionimprovement.com/basement-insulation/feed/" rel="self" type="application/rss+xml" /><link>http://www.homeconstructionimprovement.com/basement-insulation/#utm_source=rss&#038;utm_medium=rss&#038;utm_campaign=basement-insulation</link> <description>Expert Home Improvement Advice</description> <lastBuildDate>Sat, 11 Feb 2012 13:33:24 +0000</lastBuildDate> <sy:updatePeriod>hourly</sy:updatePeriod> <sy:updateFrequency>1</sy:updateFrequency> <generator>http://wordpress.org/?v=3.3.1</generator> <xhtml:meta xmlns:xhtml="http://www.w3.org/1999/xhtml" name="robots" content="noindex" /> <item><title>By: Todd</title><link>http://www.homeconstructionimprovement.com/basement-insulation/#comment-62988</link> <dc:creator>Todd</dc:creator> <pubDate>Mon, 30 Jan 2012 23:47:37 +0000</pubDate> <guid isPermaLink="false">http://localhost/test/2008/02/basement-insulation-and-framing-update/#comment-62988</guid> <description>Ideally you&#039;ll at least get one coat of tape/mud on soon after you hang the drywall. Most codes require a 20 min thermal barrier which is 1/2&quot; drywall. Fiberglass can be used for draft stopping but not a thermal barrier. Some products like 1/2&quot; OSB do meet the flame spread criteria and thus the thermal barrier requirement.Draft stopping is dependent on the code you&#039;re using. Typically blocking is installed to stop drafts from one story to another. If you have a sub-floor in place then they typically would not be required.The location of the pipes isn&#039;t super critical. You don&#039;t want them in a place that might freeze. If they are inside within insulation that&#039;s fine.Good luck.</description> <content:encoded><![CDATA[<p>Ideally you&#8217;ll at least get one coat of tape/mud on soon after you hang the drywall.<br /> Most codes require a 20 min thermal barrier which is 1/2&#8243; drywall. Fiberglass can be used for draft stopping but not a thermal barrier. Some products like 1/2&#8243; OSB do meet the flame spread criteria and thus the thermal barrier requirement.</p><p>Draft stopping is dependent on the code you&#8217;re using. Typically blocking is installed to stop drafts from one story to another. If you have a sub-floor in place then they typically would not be required.</p><p>The location of the pipes isn&#8217;t super critical. You don&#8217;t want them in a place that might freeze. If they are inside within insulation that&#8217;s fine.</p><p>Good luck.</p> ]]></content:encoded> </item> <item><title>By: MIKE</title><link>http://www.homeconstructionimprovement.com/basement-insulation/#comment-62987</link> <dc:creator>MIKE</dc:creator> <pubDate>Mon, 30 Jan 2012 23:36:54 +0000</pubDate> <guid isPermaLink="false">http://localhost/test/2008/02/basement-insulation-and-framing-update/#comment-62987</guid> <description>Hi Todd, I am starting to work on my basement, I will be insulating with the foam board just as you have described,I have several questions. You said I do not need to put 6 mil plastic on the studs before sheet rock as long as the sheet rock and paint are installed in a timely manner. What is that time frame? The foam board requires a fire block,is the R-13 insulation a fire block or do I have to use 5/8&quot; sheet rock as a fire block? Do I need to put 2&quot; x 4&quot; fire blocks in the studded walls? Last question, I have radiators on the main floor of my house,so I have a 1&quot; copper pipe that runs around the perimeter of the basement, should this pipe be inside the wall between the foam board and studs, or should I move it to the inside of the finished side and hide it in a bulk head?Thank you for taking your time in helping all of us. Mike</description> <content:encoded><![CDATA[<p>Hi Todd,<br /> I am starting to work on my basement, I will be insulating with the foam board just as you have described,I have several questions.<br /> You said I do not need to put 6 mil plastic on the studs before sheet rock as long as the sheet rock and paint are installed in a timely manner. What is that time frame?<br /> The foam board requires a fire block,is the R-13 insulation a fire block or do I have to use 5/8&#8243; sheet rock as a fire block?<br /> Do I need to put 2&#8243; x 4&#8243; fire blocks in the studded walls?<br /> Last question, I have radiators on the main floor of my house,so I have a 1&#8243; copper pipe that runs around the perimeter of the basement, should this pipe be inside the wall between the foam board and studs, or should I move it to the inside of the finished side and hide it in a bulk head?</p><p>Thank you for taking your time in helping all of us.<br /> Mike</p> ]]></content:encoded> </item> <item><title>By: Todd</title><link>http://www.homeconstructionimprovement.com/basement-insulation/#comment-62967</link> <dc:creator>Todd</dc:creator> <pubDate>Sun, 29 Jan 2012 21:46:14 +0000</pubDate> <guid isPermaLink="false">http://localhost/test/2008/02/basement-insulation-and-framing-update/#comment-62967</guid> <description>Leave it where it is. It&#039;s a grounding wire, so long as it&#039;s not cut it will be fine.</description> <content:encoded><![CDATA[<p>Leave it where it is. It&#8217;s a grounding wire, so long as it&#8217;s not cut it will be fine.</p> ]]></content:encoded> </item> <item><title>By: Joe A</title><link>http://www.homeconstructionimprovement.com/basement-insulation/#comment-62962</link> <dc:creator>Joe A</dc:creator> <pubDate>Sun, 29 Jan 2012 17:00:11 +0000</pubDate> <guid isPermaLink="false">http://localhost/test/2008/02/basement-insulation-and-framing-update/#comment-62962</guid> <description>Tod, I am insulating my basement with XPS 2&quot;.  Against the sill I have placed the foam board and then used great stuff.  There is a grounding wire against the foam as it was stapled against the sill.Is this a fire hazard?  Can I leave this or do I need to pull this off and do something else?Joe</description> <content:encoded><![CDATA[<p>Tod,<br /> I am insulating my basement with XPS 2&#8243;.  Against the sill I have placed the foam board and then used great stuff.  There is a grounding wire against the foam as it was stapled against the sill.</p><p>Is this a fire hazard?  Can I leave this or do I need to pull this off and do something else?</p><p>Joe</p> ]]></content:encoded> </item> <item><title>By: Todd</title><link>http://www.homeconstructionimprovement.com/basement-insulation/#comment-62905</link> <dc:creator>Todd</dc:creator> <pubDate>Thu, 26 Jan 2012 12:06:53 +0000</pubDate> <guid isPermaLink="false">http://localhost/test/2008/02/basement-insulation-and-framing-update/#comment-62905</guid> <description>Gary - Your close. I&#039;d change a couple things.- Foam, taped and sealed at all joints. The tape can be on the back side if you want to install all this on the frame first. - No plastic. - Framing. - No plastic. - Consider using a product like Roxul which is completely mold proof.Good luck.</description> <content:encoded><![CDATA[<p>Gary &#8211; Your close. I&#8217;d change a couple things.</p><p>- Foam, taped and sealed at all joints. The tape can be on the back side if you want to install all this on the frame first.<br /> - No plastic.<br /> - Framing.<br /> - No plastic.<br /> - Consider using a product like Roxul which is completely mold proof.</p><p>Good luck.</p> ]]></content:encoded> </item> <item><title>By: Gary</title><link>http://www.homeconstructionimprovement.com/basement-insulation/#comment-62896</link> <dc:creator>Gary</dc:creator> <pubDate>Wed, 25 Jan 2012 17:38:19 +0000</pubDate> <guid isPermaLink="false">http://localhost/test/2008/02/basement-insulation-and-framing-update/#comment-62896</guid> <description>Todd, I have a question about framing/finishing my basement. I have a stone and mortor basement foundation wall, which does allow some moisture to pass through. As such I do see efflorenscence on parts of the wall. I run a demumidifier all year. My question realtes as to what type/s of insulation I should use as I frame out the walls. My thought was to frame the walls about 1 foot away from the foundation wall in the following order; From the wall in; Rigid foam insulation, plastic sheeting, both attached to the back of the framing. Then insulate further with fiberglass batt insulation, followed by another layer of platic sheeting and then drywall. I will be using the wood floor panels with the plastic on the bottom to allow the floor to breath as well. Will this work do you think or should I attach the rigid foam directly against the wall first...its very uneven so not quite sure how I would do that successfully.I also dont want to trap moisture that comes through the walls against the rigid foam, all be it that the foam does breath to some extent. My thinking is that the gap between the stone wall the rigid foam attached to the studs will allow it to breath while also keeping from condensation forming on the walls or rigid foam. Any help is appreciated. Thank you. Gary</description> <content:encoded><![CDATA[<p>Todd,<br /> I have a question about framing/finishing my basement. I have a stone and mortor basement foundation wall, which does allow some moisture to pass through. As such I do see efflorenscence on parts of the wall. I run a demumidifier all year.<br /> My question realtes as to what type/s of insulation I should use as I frame out the walls. My thought was to frame the walls about 1 foot away from the foundation wall in the following order;<br /> From the wall in; Rigid foam insulation, plastic sheeting, both attached to the back of the framing. Then insulate further with fiberglass batt insulation, followed by another layer of platic sheeting and then drywall.<br /> I will be using the wood floor panels with the plastic on the bottom to allow the floor to breath as well.<br /> Will this work do you think or should I attach the rigid foam directly against the wall first&#8230;its very uneven so not quite sure how I would do that successfully.I also dont want to trap moisture that comes through the walls against the rigid foam, all be it that the foam does breath to some extent. My thinking is that the gap between the stone wall the rigid foam attached to the studs will allow it to breath while also keeping from condensation forming on the walls or rigid foam.<br /> Any help is appreciated. Thank you.<br /> Gary</p> ]]></content:encoded> </item> </channel> </rss>
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