<?xml version="1.0" encoding="UTF-8"?><rss version="2.0" xmlns:content="http://purl.org/rss/1.0/modules/content/" xmlns:dc="http://purl.org/dc/elements/1.1/" xmlns:atom="http://www.w3.org/2005/Atom" xmlns:sy="http://purl.org/rss/1.0/modules/syndication/" > <channel><title>Comments for Home Construction Improvement</title> <atom:link href="http://www.homeconstructionimprovement.com/comments/feed/" rel="self" type="application/rss+xml" /><link>http://www.homeconstructionimprovement.com</link> <description>Expert Home Improvement Advice</description> <lastBuildDate>Fri, 10 Feb 2012 16:59:19 +0000</lastBuildDate> <sy:updatePeriod>hourly</sy:updatePeriod> <sy:updateFrequency>1</sy:updateFrequency> <generator>http://wordpress.org/?v=3.3.1</generator> <xhtml:meta xmlns:xhtml="http://www.w3.org/1999/xhtml" name="robots" content="noindex" /> <item><title>Comment on DIY Basement Insulation Video by Todd</title><link>http://www.homeconstructionimprovement.com/diy-basement-insulation-video/#comment-63243</link> <dc:creator>Todd</dc:creator> <pubDate>Fri, 10 Feb 2012 16:59:19 +0000</pubDate> <guid isPermaLink="false">http://www.homeconstructionimprovement.com/?p=10289#comment-63243</guid> <description>You got it!</description> <content:encoded><![CDATA[<p>You got it!</p> ]]></content:encoded> </item> <item><title>Comment on DIY Basement Insulation Video by Todd</title><link>http://www.homeconstructionimprovement.com/diy-basement-insulation-video/#comment-63242</link> <dc:creator>Todd</dc:creator> <pubDate>Fri, 10 Feb 2012 16:58:19 +0000</pubDate> <guid isPermaLink="false">http://www.homeconstructionimprovement.com/?p=10289#comment-63242</guid> <description>Are you talking about plastic on the foam? Just leave it, any adhesive you use it only temporary until you put framing up. After that it doesn&#039;t matter if it moves so long as the seams stay sealed.Your builder did it correctly. That video the fiberglass still needs a plastic vapor barrier.</description> <content:encoded><![CDATA[<p>Are you talking about plastic on the foam? Just leave it, any adhesive you use it only temporary until you put framing up. After that it doesn&#8217;t matter if it moves so long as the seams stay sealed.</p><p>Your builder did it correctly. That video the fiberglass still needs a plastic vapor barrier.</p> ]]></content:encoded> </item> <item><title>Comment on Foam Board Insulation R Values by Todd</title><link>http://www.homeconstructionimprovement.com/foam-board-insulation-values/#comment-63241</link> <dc:creator>Todd</dc:creator> <pubDate>Fri, 10 Feb 2012 16:53:33 +0000</pubDate> <guid isPermaLink="false">http://www.homeconstructionimprovement.com/?p=3254#comment-63241</guid> <description>Floating slab details vary greatly around the Country. You&#039;ll likely need to work with your local building code official to work out the fine details. &quot;Floating Slab&quot; actually implies that you let the slab move up and down with the frost. Technically what your inspector is asking for is NOT a floating slab.Most people in the industry consider each inch of foam board to be approx equivalent to 1 to 2 feet of artificial cover. So if the thickened slab is a foot below grade, and you have 2 inches of foam under it, you&#039;ll likely defeat the frost.Most thickened slabs are roughly 12 inches thick at the perimeter and 4 to 6 inches thick for the remaining slab. You&#039;ll need to put the foam under the slab, then pour directly on top of it.</description> <content:encoded><![CDATA[<p>Floating slab details vary greatly around the Country. You&#8217;ll likely need to work with your local building code official to work out the fine details. &#8220;Floating Slab&#8221; actually implies that you let the slab move up and down with the frost. Technically what your inspector is asking for is NOT a floating slab.</p><p>Most people in the industry consider each inch of foam board to be approx equivalent to 1 to 2 feet of artificial cover. So if the thickened slab is a foot below grade, and you have 2 inches of foam under it, you&#8217;ll likely defeat the frost.</p><p>Most thickened slabs are roughly 12 inches thick at the perimeter and 4 to 6 inches thick for the remaining slab. You&#8217;ll need to put the foam under the slab, then pour directly on top of it.</p> ]]></content:encoded> </item> <item><title>Comment on New Lead Paint Laws Effective April 22, 2010 by Edward Marsh</title><link>http://www.homeconstructionimprovement.com/new-lead-paint-law-effective-april-22-2010/#comment-63240</link> <dc:creator>Edward Marsh</dc:creator> <pubDate>Fri, 10 Feb 2012 16:31:09 +0000</pubDate> <guid isPermaLink="false">http://www.homeconstructionimprovement.com/?p=6908#comment-63240</guid> <description>As a certified renovator in Pennsylvania I have come to realize that most contractors are scared to confront customers with the increased cost of doing the renovation in a safe manner.  We have also seen that there are many contractors that are rolling the dice and spitting in the eye of the EPA and this could &amp; will come back to bite. You must remember that in the soceity that we live in that you don&#039;t always need to worry about the EPA showing up on your job site but, if the customer gets a moment where he is not happy with you and finds out that the laws exist that it should not be out of the question that someone could report you as a form of being vindictive.  What about a customer&#039;s neighbor if you are doing outside work?  I know that where I do business that there is a extensive media campaign for the lead laws so remeber that the customer&#039;s are not out in the dark as one might think. Before you take the chance of not following the rules you may want to look at it again and take the high road on this issue.  If you have any questions or comments come see us at &lt;a </description> <content:encoded><![CDATA[<p>As a certified renovator in Pennsylvania I have come to realize that most contractors are scared to confront customers with the increased cost of doing the renovation in a safe manner.  We have also seen that there are many contractors that are rolling the dice and spitting in the eye of the EPA and this could &amp; will come back to bite. You must remember that in the soceity that we live in that you don&#8217;t always need to worry about the EPA showing up on your job site but, if the customer gets a moment where he is not happy with you and finds out that the laws exist that it should not be out of the question that someone could report you as a form of being vindictive.  What about a customer&#8217;s neighbor if you are doing outside work?  I know that where I do business that there is a extensive media campaign for the lead laws so remeber that the customer&#8217;s are not out in the dark as one might think. Before you take the chance of not following the rules you may want to look at it again and take the high road on this issue.  If you have any questions or comments come see us at &lt;a</p> ]]></content:encoded> </item> <item><title>Comment on How To Insulate Basement Walls by Todd</title><link>http://www.homeconstructionimprovement.com/how-to-insulate-basement-walls/#comment-63236</link> <dc:creator>Todd</dc:creator> <pubDate>Fri, 10 Feb 2012 12:04:02 +0000</pubDate> <guid isPermaLink="false">http://localhost/test/2008/11/how-to-insulate-basement-walls/#comment-63236</guid> <description>Steve - Glad you found the site useful. The air space is a &quot;nice to have&quot; bonus. It just helps let things dry out easier if you get moisture behind the wall. Not 100% necessary.</description> <content:encoded><![CDATA[<p>Steve &#8211; Glad you found the site useful. The air space is a &#8220;nice to have&#8221; bonus. It just helps let things dry out easier if you get moisture behind the wall. Not 100% necessary.</p> ]]></content:encoded> </item> <item><title>Comment on How To Insulate Basement Walls by Steve</title><link>http://www.homeconstructionimprovement.com/how-to-insulate-basement-walls/#comment-63230</link> <dc:creator>Steve</dc:creator> <pubDate>Thu, 09 Feb 2012 18:55:12 +0000</pubDate> <guid isPermaLink="false">http://localhost/test/2008/11/how-to-insulate-basement-walls/#comment-63230</guid> <description>Todd,Great sites you have here.I am going to be installing 1.5&quot; of XPS, and then place the stud wall with Fiberglass right up next to it.  I have noticed a few posts on here talk about leaving a small gap between the XPS &amp; Stud wall.  What purpose does the small gap serve and is it required?Thanks, Steve</description> <content:encoded><![CDATA[<p>Todd,</p><p>Great sites you have here.</p><p>I am going to be installing 1.5&#8243; of XPS, and then place the stud wall with Fiberglass right up next to it.  I have noticed a few posts on here talk about leaving a small gap between the XPS &amp; Stud wall.  What purpose does the small gap serve and is it required?</p><p>Thanks,<br /> Steve</p> ]]></content:encoded> </item> </channel> </rss>
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